Mirlycourtois is the Crème de la Crème

According to Shrek, change is good. That's what The Friend and I hope to prove as we visit Mirlycourtois' new location on Princess Street.

So far, so good. Located in the increasingly trendy Exchange District, the second level of this converted building is bursting with subtle elegance. An open space, large windows, a scattering of small tables, soft lighting, a corner fireplace, fresh-cut flowers and boldly painted walls have combined to create an intimate ambiance. Even better, the decor at Mirlycourtois matches the food we fell in love with at their interiorly challenged former location on Portage Avenue.

"Attentive staff, a comfortably sophisticated ambiance and delectable dishes make dining at Mirlycourtois nothing short of magnifique !"

We're on a roll... our server is pleasant with a good sense of humour and quick to bring us water and wine - Black Shiraz ($6 glass). And since gifts from the kitchen seem to be all the rage, who are we to turn down a sliver of smoked salmon quiche?

Printed in French and English, the menu does not pretend to be something it isn't - this is a French restaurant with French food. In anticipation of what's to come, we go light on the appetizers - Escargot Bourgogne ($9.95). Six snail shells are stuffed with meaty escargot in a perfect butter garlic sauce, which we quickly soak up with soft French bread. OK, maybe it's not so light... Other tempting appetizers include French onion soup, vichyssoise, terrine of duck foie gras, duck rillette, Norwegian smoked salmon and salads ($5.95 - $22.95).

Arriving on a diamond-shaped plate, my Tournedos a L'esprit de Vin ($36.95) is first a treat for my eyes and then my palate. Lightly covered in a flavourful red wine sauce, incredibly tender medallions of beef tenderloin share the plate with a colourful melange of squash, carrots and crunchy snap peas. My cream-whipped potatoes are so light I'm surprised they don't float away.

TF considers other mouth-watering entrée options like pickerel filet almondine, steelhead trout, coq au vin, ribeye and lamb chops but decides to celebrate a low cholesterol reading with one of the dinner specials - Duck Confit ($26.95)

This French specialty dish sends TF to fat heaven. There's something so wrong and yet so good about duck meat that's slowly cooked in its own skin and fat. "This is the perfect balance of crunch and fat," raves TF. Served in a huge bowl, the duck leg rests on a bed of white kidney beans, surrounded by the colourful vegetables du jour.

Just when we thought it couldn't get any better, the important matter of dessert is brought to our attention.

Decisions, decisions. Should we share a platter of French cheese? Mais non. Perhaps the tarte tatin? Cheesecake? Strawberries in Cointreau? Not this time.

Crème brulee ($5.50)? Mais oui, says TF without hesitation. This light custard dish with the caramelized sugar topping is an ideal finale to the evening.

Your DD tries the dessert du jour - Grape Calfouti ($5.50). An enjoyable pie-like dish with bunches of grapes baked in a sweet batter and topped with a hefty dollop of real whipped cream.

Both of our desserts are paired with a side of fruit - raspberries, concord grapes, orange segments and, for something unique, apple slices soaked in grenadine.

Attention to detail is also found in the bathroom, of all places. Should an emergency arise, who can't appreciate a basket with dental floss, static guard and a sewing kit?

With attentive staff, a comfortably sophisticated ambiance and delectable dishes, a dining experience at Mirlycourtois is nothing short of magnifique!

- Jon Schledfwitz